The skincare changes you need to make after 40

Author:
Perimenopause and menopause can cause dryness, sensitivity and increased skin pigmentation. Photo: Getty

This article first appeared in The House of Wellness magazine.

As well as experiencing major physical, physiological and emotional fluctuations, a 2022 survey by skincare brand Essano showed that 80 per cent of Kiwi women saw changes in their skin when they went through perimenopause and menopause.

It’s all down to (spoiler alert) hormonal changes, specifically to the levels of estrogen in the body. When estrogen levels fall, skin loses the ability to protect itself, maintain hydration or produce strong collagen the way it used to.

This can result in severe dryness, deeper wrinkles, increased visibility of pigmentation and age spots, acne and noticeable drooping and sagging. Hot flushes also produce more sweat and sometimes even hives. Fun!

Evolving complexion

Christchurch-based cosmetic chemist Sigrid Vorwerk designed a skincare line to deliver relief and provide much-needed support to women during menopause.

“Think of it like our skin’s support system is being reduced,” she explains. “Without that hormonal cushion, our skin becomes thinner, more reactive and struggles to hold onto moisture.

“This is completely normal. Our skin isn’t failing – it’s simply responding to a major hormonal shift. That’s why choosing products that support your skin through this change (rather than stripping it further) becomes so important.”

Cosmetic chemist Sigrid Vorwerk recommends hydration, barrier repair and calming ingredients for ageing skin. Photo: Supplied

Skincare solutions

Sigrid says at this stage it’s all about working with your skin’s new rhythm, not against it. All of a sudden, “many women experience tightness after cleansing, surprise sensitivity to products they’ve always used and a general sense that their skin needs different care”.

So it’s important to apply products containing ingredients that focus on hydration, barrier repair and calming sensitivity. Look for hydrating powerhouses hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce redness. Nourish and protect skin with plant oils (almond, borage, linseed, olive), shea butter and New Zealand Totarol, then calm and soothe with ingredients like calendula, aloe vera and oat oil. For instant cooling comfort during hot flushes, menthol is a saviour.

What to avoid

As well as things you should do for your skin during perimenopause and menopause, there are certain things you definitely shouldn’t do. Sigrid recommends avoiding harsh cleansing, which can further damage your already weakened skin barrier, and over-exfoliating for the same reason. “Menopausal skin is more reactive and needs protection, not aggression.”

Fragrance overload is also something to be wary of as high allergen levels and heavy synthetic fragrances can trigger irritation. Active skincare should be left for when the skin barrier is a little stronger (although many of us may need it ripped from our cold, dead hands), and never ignore your skin’s signals – if it reddens or stings, stop using it.

So it’s important to apply products containing ingredients that focus on hydration, barrier repair and calming sensitivity. Look for hydrating powerhouses hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce redness. Nourish and protect skin with plant oils (almond, borage, linseed, olive), shea butter and New Zealand Totarol, then calm and soothe with ingredients like calendula, aloe vera and oat oil. For instant cooling comfort during hot flushes, menthol is a saviour.

What to avoid

As well as things you should do for your skin during perimenopause and menopause, there are certain things you definitely shouldn’t do. Sigrid recommends avoiding harsh cleansing, which can further damage your already weakened skin barrier, and over-exfoliating for the same reason. “Menopausal skin is more reactive and needs protection, not aggression.”

Fragrance overload is also something to be wary of as high allergen levels and heavy synthetic fragrances can trigger irritation. Active skincare should be left for when the skin barrier is a little stronger (although many of us may need it ripped from our cold, dead hands), and never ignore your skin’s signals – if it reddens or stings, stop using it.

Never skip moisturiser, as your skin needs hydration more than ever, and always aim to keep your routine gentle, simple and nourishing. “Your skin needs doesn’t need trends, it needs support.”